I finished everything up the last couple weeks (except for a gas line) and this weekend I was off to camp at Battle Ground Lake State Park. It was very nice and I attended my Porsche Transmission class, entertained my friends Deb and Gary from Vancouver and it worked out well. I have another canvas rip, but that is an easy fix. This is my last post on this topic and I am going to call it good!

Here is where I started…

After all of my car rustoration metal work and welding this winter, I managed to eek out a few fabrication skills and I knew I would need them for the things I wanted to add to the front storage area of the trailer itself. I did the research on what I could buy to fit that “A” shaped area and I figured it was going to cost another $500 bucks, So I decided to build what I wanted myself. The first thing I did was spec out the cooler and I ended up with two of them (32 cans, 25 Quart) Iggloo Marine Coolers and tie downs. I figured I could fab up a bracket and mount the tie down system, they are just 11 inches in depth, so they fit perfect. So tonight I fabricated the bracket out of 3/4 inch steel, square tube, welded it all up and measured it in. I have to clean up my welds, drill and tap all the brackets holes and then mount it on the trailer. The fit is cool and it will look great.

This weekend I fitted the new covers for the bed foam that I ordered a month back and they look really nice in that ‘70’s retro way…

Then I built a frame, boxed it and mounted my “under the seat” cooler and filled the interior with expansion foam. Now we have dry goods and pantry storage.

I finished up the water system and got it all tested. I ended up having to replace every hose, the tank and the pump faucet (which was a hard to find part).

I also plumbed in the option for an electric pump line and the drain option that is a twist versus the plug that usually strips…

We managed to get the trailer out for the first trip this last weekend to Whidbey Island. It towed well, but all of the work I have not completed on the inside and the support stuff was a hassle. I started to stitch the canvas this week and I am now doubling the size of the water tank and getting all the water systems in order.

I decided to swap to a ABS unit versus the polyethylene and all of the toxic stuff. I have the space to mount it under the seats and I am using water heater straps, etc. to mount it. I will post details and I cut the holes and finish it up.

I finished up the electrical*, the trim and the weather calking, things are looking good!

* -- Phase 1 as In plan to do a full seven wire conversion when I get the time for the backup lights, backup spot and electric brakes.

Final paint is going down on the body this week. Then the electrical wiring and all new lights, backup spot, leveler’s, etc. I am also adding a full electrical braking system controlled from within the truck, so the overall safety of the trailer will be way better than when we started.

Check out that shine on that Rustolem paint job! You’d never guess it went on with a roller <shivers>

Finished up the rebuild of the axle and braking system. I am awaiting new drums before I mount the nice new wheels and tires.

Here is the original setup, and it was obvious the brakes would have not worked if they were charged.

Then the new setup, all rust encapsulated, painted and new brakes.

Axle mounted and taped off for the final paint on the body.

I finished up the coats of paint on the trailer lid and it looks really good. I am going to let it cure while I work on the body.

Next I went through all the parts and lights attached to the body with sheet metal screws (which I hate) and put in the nut holders and I will tack with a small weld and tighten them up, this makes the lights replaceable, etc.

Then cut the new inserts in the sheet metal for the new triple rear tail lights.

Next I will do the under body rust treatment then start painting the body.

We stripped down the whole trailer to bare metal and started fixing the little things. I then taped it off and decided to paint the the top of the trailer before I worked on the other stuff, this makes sense as we can raise it out of the way and tape it off. I applied the first coat of the thinned Rustoluem paint (50% paint – 50% mineral spirits) and it is an nice almond color. Looking at 6-7 coats over the next several days and then polish/buff. I am excited to see how good this comes out.

We have been wanting to get a tent trailer for a number of years, but the price and the number of years we would use it seemed to make the price too high to justify the purchase. I looked at used ones and did the research and you can easily get into $1500+ of costs just replacing canvas, tires, springs, etc. So it was great that last weekend we ended up being given a 1984 Coleman trailer and it met my lowest price of “FREE” and it is in decent enough shape for being 25 years old. The canvas needs some attention to patching, but it is worth keeping. The undercarriage is intact and with some POR-15 treatment, it will last a long time. The paint and sheet metal showed no “rusting through” and so I figured it was a candidate to easily fix up and paint. The last issue is to repack the wheel bearings, replace the springs and get new wheels and tires. All told, I figure 500 bucks should do it. I plan to replace all the electrical (after I just rewired the Porsche, this should be a piece of cake), add new lights, mattress covers and new water & gas lines.

I have been wanting to test the internet legend of the “$50 Paint Job” using high density rollers and thinned Rustolem paint and the Tent Trailer Restoration is the perfect project to test this out and see if I can recreate the results everyone is raving about. We ended up doing a lot of work this weekend to get the trailer prepped for painting and have most of the sheet metal and aluminum exposed and ready for primer.

I will update the posts over the next couple weeks as I finish the restoration and get camping!